7 Days in Kansai: A Journey Beyond Kyoto to Hidden Temples & Sacred Trails

I’ve spent a lot of time on temple paths and mountain trails around Japan. Kyoto’s famous pavilions and bamboo groves are worth seeing, but I keep coming back to the quieter places just past the usual tourist routes. This 7-day Kansai route is for travelers who have already done the highlights and want more time in the mountains, the old shrines, and the country roads. It trades the crowds for cedar forests and the sound of mountain streams.

7-Day Kansai Itinerary at a Glance

Day	Location	Main Activity	Vibe
1	Kyoto (North)	Hike from Kibune to Kurama-dera Temple	Mystical, Mountainous, Spiritual
2	Kyoto (Ohara)	Explore Sanzen-in Temple’s moss garden	Serene, Rural, Contemplative
3	Nara (Uda)	Visit Murou-ji, the “Women’s Koyasan”	Ancient, Powerful, Natural
4	Shiga	Visit Enryaku-ji on Mt. Hiei & Lake Biwa	Sacred, Historic, Panoramic
5	Wakayama	Hike the Daimon-zaka section of Kumano Kodo	Ancient, Forested, Pilgrim-focused
6	Wakayama	Visit Kumano Nachi Taisha & Nachi Falls	Powerful, Spiritual, Nature-worship
7	Osaka	Explore Shinsekai and eat Kushikatsu	Retro, Energetic, Delicious

Day 1-2: Northern Kyoto’s Mystical Mountains

We start in the mountains north of central Kyoto, away from the main crowds. This is cedar-forest country, tied to tengu legends and a long history of mountain worship.

Day 1: The Sacred Hike from Kifune to Kurama

We start by taking the charming Eizan Railway to Kibune-guchi Station. From there, a short bus ride or a pleasant 30-minute walk takes us to Kifune Shrine, dedicated to the god of water. The iconic view of the stone staircase lined with red lanterns is just the beginning. After paying respects, we begin the hike over the mountain to Kurama-dera Temple. This isn’t just a walk; it’s a pilgrimage route filled with smaller shrines and ancient trees, including the impressive Kinone Sando (Path of Tree Roots).

Kurama-dera sits on the mountainside, with wide views down the valley. It’s said to be the birthplace of Reiki, and the tradition of mountain ascetic practice is still part of the place. The main hall is dedicated to a trinity of deities.

•Stay: A traditional ryokan in Kurama or Kibune. Experiencing an onsen after the hike is pure bliss.

•Eat: Nagashi-somen (flowing noodles) in Kibune during the summer months is a classic experience.

Day 2: Contemplation in the Moss Gardens of Ohara

From Kurama, we head east to the rural valley of Ohara, a place that feels a world away from the city center. We’re headed for Sanzen-in Temple and its moss garden. I sat for a while on the edge of the Ojo Gokuraku-in Hall, just looking at the moss. The small Warabe-Jizo statues tucked into it are easy to miss the first time.

Ohara is also home to several other smaller temples, including the serene Jikko-in and the historic Jakko-in, all within walking distance. It’s a perfect place for a day of quiet walking and contemplation.

•Pro-Tip: Visit on a weekday morning to have the gardens almost to yourself. The atmosphere is completely different without the crowds.

Day 3: Nara’s Serene Mountain Sanctuary

While most visitors to Nara head straight for the Great Buddha and the deer in Nara Park, there’s a quieter side to this ancient capital waiting to be discovered. If you arrive early, consider a detour to Mount Wakakusa (Wakakusayama), where wild deer roam freely on the open hillside with panoramic views of the Nara basin below—a scene that feels worlds apart from the crowded park.

From there we head further into the prefecture to Murou-ji Temple, in the mountains of Uda. It’s known as the “Women’s Koyasan” because it admitted female worshippers back when Mount Koya was closed to them.

The temple is built on a mountainside, and its layout is a journey in itself. The five-storied pagoda is the part I remember most. It’s the smallest outdoor pagoda in Japan, and it stands among the tall trees without looking out of place. The climb to the Okunoin (inner sanctuary) is steep, but it’s quiet at the top and worth the effort.

•Getting There: Access is more challenging, which is part of its charm. From Kintetsu Murou-guchi-Ono Station, it’s a 15-minute bus ride.

•Don’t Miss: The main hall (Kondo) and the Miroku-do hall house stunning Buddhist statues, many of which are National Treasures.

Day 4: Lake Biwa & the Spiritual Heart of Shiga

Today, we head to Shiga Prefecture, home to Japan’s largest freshwater lake, Lake Biwa, and the sacred Mount Hiei. We’ll ascend Mount Hiei to visit Enryaku-ji, the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Japanese Buddhism and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Enryaku-ji is not a single temple but a vast complex of halls and training centers spread across the mountain. The atmosphere is solemn and deeply historic. The main hall, Konpon Chudo, is currently undergoing a major renovation, but you can still feel the weight of its 1,200-year history. I was particularly moved by the Saitō (Western Pagoda) area, which feels more secluded and ancient.

After the mountain, we come down to Lake Biwa. The view of the lake from up on Mount Hiei is the kind you stop and look at for a while. A boat to Chikubu Island, a small sacred island in the lake, is a good way to get a sense of how large Biwako is.

•Stay: Consider staying at a hotel on the shores of Lake Biwa for stunning morning views.

•Alternative: For a more rural experience, head to the Metasequoia Namiki (Avenue of Metasequoias) in northern Shiga, especially beautiful in autumn.

Day 5-6: Walking the Ancient Kumano Kodo Trail

Now for the spiritual heart of our journey: the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails in Wakayama Prefecture. This network of ancient paths has been walked by emperors and commoners for over a thousand years. We’ll focus on a manageable yet deeply rewarding section.

Day 5: The Daimon-zaka Slope

We travel south to the Kii Peninsula. Our base will be near Kii-Katsuura, a town with excellent onsen. Today, we tackle the Daimon-zaka, a beautiful 600-meter cobblestone staircase that leads up to the Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine. It’s lined with old cedar trees, and though it’s short it’s one of the better stretches of the Kumano Kodo to walk. You can rent Heian-period pilgrim costumes at the base of the slope if you want photos in them.

Day 6: The Grand Shrine and Japan’s Tallest Waterfall

Today we visit the three sacred sites at the heart of the Kumano faith: Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the three great Kumano shrines; the adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple; and the magnificent Nachi Falls. The three-storied pagoda of Seiganto-ji with the 133-meter waterfall behind it is one of the most photographed views in Japan, and it earns it in person. The falls are worshipped as a deity themselves.

•Stay: A ryokan in Kii-Katsuura with a cave onsen overlooking the Pacific Ocean is a must-try.

•Eat: Fresh tuna! Katsuura is one of the largest tuna fishing ports in Japan.

Day 7: Osaka’s Deep, Delicious Soul

After several days of temples and trails, we finish in Shinsekai, the old retro district of Osaka. It’s a complete change of pace. The Tsutenkaku Tower stands over it, and the streets below are loud, cheap, and full of food stalls.

The main reason to come here is the food, specifically kushikatsu—deep-fried skewers of meat, vegetables, and even cheese. The rule is famous: no double-dipping in the communal sauce container! Going from one standing-only kushikatsu shop to the next is how most people do Shinsekai. It’s a noisy, busy end to a trip that started in quiet mountain temples.

•Do: Play a game of shogi or go with the old men in the Janjan Yokocho alleyway.

•Go Deeper: For an even more local experience, explore the nearby Tobita Shinchi area (for historical architecture) or the Nishinari district, but be mindful and respectful of the local community.

Budget & Accommodation

•Budget: Expect to spend around ¥15,000 – ¥25,000 per person per day, depending on your choice of accommodation and dining. This itinerary involves significant travel, so transportation will be a major cost.

•Accommodation: A mix of city hotels (Kyoto, Osaka), traditional ryokan (Kurama, Kii-Katsuura), and possibly a temple lodging (shukubo) on Mount Hiei would provide a fantastic range of experiences.

Getting Around Kansai

This itinerary is best done using a combination of trains and buses. A Kansai Wide Area Pass could be cost-effective for the long-distance travel between Kyoto, Shiga, and Wakayama. However, it does not cover all the private railways and buses needed for this trip (like the Eizan Railway or the buses in Nara and Wakayama). Careful planning with tools like Google Maps or Jorudan is essential. For the more remote areas like Murou-ji and Kumano Kodo, renting a car for a day or two could be a convenient alternative.

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Conclusion: The Soul of Kansai

This route covers a lot of ground, from the mountain temples of Kurama to the pilgrimage trails of Kumano. It’s a side of Kansai that most short trips skip, and the part of the region I’d send a returning visitor to first.

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•Last updated: March 26, 2026