Tochigi · Nikko · Oku-Nikko · Yumoto Onsen · Yunishigawa
Nikko in winter is two trips in one. Down in town, the World Heritage shrines and temple stay open on shorter hours. Up the 48 hairpins of the Irohazaka, Oku-Nikko has Kegon Falls with ice on its cliff, Lake Chuzenji under snowy peaks and the milky sulphur springs of Yumoto Onsen, all reached by Tobu buses that run through the winter. What changes is the list of things that shut: the Akechidaira Ropeway is closed for renovation and plans to reopen in September 2027, the road over Konsei Pass closes every winter, and Yumoto becomes the end of the line. This guide is built as a two-day trip, with a third evening for the snow-hut festival at Yunishigawa.

One thing I always tell people about Nikko in winter: go up the mountain. Most visitors do the shrines in town as a day trip from Tokyo, see little or no snow, and go home. The snow, the ice on Kegon’s cliff and the hot springs are an hour or more up the valley in Oku-Nikko, around 1,300 m and higher, and they are worth a night. The photos in this guide of Oku-Nikko, the bus, the monkeys and the hotel are from our own winter trips.
The trade-off is planning. Buses run less often, some things close, and the winter bus timetable for 2026–27 was not out when we checked on 12 October 2026. Where a figure is from last winter, this guide says so. If you are visiting Nikko in autumn instead, see the Nikko autumn leaves 2026 guide for colour timing by area and Irohazaka traffic.
| Day | Plan |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Early train from Asakusa to Tobu-Nikko; bus up the Irohazaka to Chuzenji Onsen for Kegon Falls and the lakeshore; on to Yumoto Onsen. Sleep at Yumoto |
| Day 2 | A short walk around Yumoto; morning bus down to town for Rinnoji (buy the set ticket by 13:30), Toshogu and Futarasan; train back to Tokyo |
| Day 3 (optional) | For the snow-hut festival (Fridays to Sundays, late January to February): instead of going home on Day 2, sleep in Nikko or Kinugawa, then go by train and bus to Yunishigawa Onsen for the evening. Sleep there |
What is open and what is closed in Nikko in winter 2026–27?
Checked against each operator on 12 October 2026. Where the 2026–27 details were not yet published, we say so and give last winter’s.
| Place or service | Winter 2026–27 |
|---|---|
| Toshogu, Rinnoji, Futarasan | Open through the winter on shorter hours, with a few closure days at Rinnoji (see Day 2) |
| Kegon Falls elevator | Open; 9:00–16:30 from 1 December to 28 February (last entry 16:10), 8:00–17:00 from 1 March; ¥600 adults, return. It can stop without notice in bad weather |
| Tobu buses to Chuzenji and Yumoto | Run all winter. The 2026–27 winter timetable was not published on 12 October; the summer timetable runs to 30 November 2026 |
| Akechidaira Ropeway | Closed for renovation since 16 January 2026; the operator plans to reopen in September 2027 |
| Route 120 over Konsei Pass | Usually closed from noon on 25 December to noon on 24 April, says the Ministry of the Environment’s Yumoto Visitor Center; Tochigi had not yet published its 2026–27 notice, and the dates can shift with the weather. Oku-Nikko is a dead end while it is shut |
| Yudaki–Kotaki section of the Senjogahara path | Closed from 18 August 2026 to the end of March 2027 (planned) for works; a detour towards Senjogahara stays open |
| Lake Yunoko loop path | Closed in winter because it gets icy and dangerous |
| Nikko Yumoto ski area | The 2026–27 season had not been announced. Last season it opened late and closed early, on 18 March, for lack of snow |
| Kirifuri Kogen and Hangetsuyama bus lines | Suspended in winter (last winter’s timetable) |
How do you get to Nikko and up to Oku-Nikko in winter?
From Tokyo
By Tobu from Asakusa. Limited expresses reach Tobu-Nikko in about 1 hour 50 minutes; the Spacia X leaves Asakusa at 7:50 and arrives at 9:39, for example. In the normal season the fare is ¥1,400 plus a limited-express charge of ¥1,940 for a Spacia X standard seat or ¥1,650 on the older Kegon and Revaty trains. Tobu adds ¥200 to the charge on busy days (in winter: several December weekends, 26 December to 4 January, February weekends from the 13th, early March weekends and every day from 20 to 31 March) and takes ¥200 off on quiet weekdays in January and early February.
By JR. Take the shinkansen to Utsunomiya and change to the JR Nikko Line, about 41 to 46 minutes to JR Nikko, about hourly in the middle of the day on the October 2026 timetable. A Japan Rail Pass covers JR’s own trains; on the through trains from Shinjuku to Tobu-Nikko it covers only the JR part, and you pay for the Tobu part.
Up to Oku-Nikko by bus
Tobu buses for Yumoto Onsen leave from both JR Nikko and Tobu-Nikko stations, climb the Irohazaka to Chuzenji Onsen (about 48 minutes) and go on past Ryuzu Falls and Senjogahara to Yumoto Onsen (about 88 minutes); traffic can delay them badly. Last winter’s timetable had 31 buses a day reaching Chuzenji Onsen and 21 reaching Yumoto. The first left JR Nikko at 6:06, the last for Yumoto left Tobu-Nikko at 18:05, and the last bus down from Yumoto left at 19:30. Treat those as a guide only until the 2026–27 timetable is out.

Which pass, if any?
Prices from Tobu and Tobu Bus on 12 October 2026:
| Pass | What it covers |
|---|---|
| NIKKO PASS all area, ¥8,000 (4 days) | One return between Asakusa and Shimo-Imaichi, Tobu trains around Nikko and Kinugawa, all Tobu buses in Nikko including Yumoto, and in winter one 4-ride lift ticket at Nikko Yumoto ski area. Limited-express charges extra. For foreign visitors; Japanese nationals travelling with them can also buy it |
| NIKKO PASS world heritage area, ¥3,000 (2 days) | The same rail return plus buses around the shrines only; it does not reach Chuzenji or Yumoto |
| Tobu Bus Yumoto Onsen free pass, ¥3,500 (2 days) | Buses between Nikko and Yumoto Onsen only. Paper passes are sold at the Tobu-Nikko Station tourist centre, 8:20–16:20. A Yumoto hotel’s January 2026 notice said a half-price winter version was sold last winter to guests staying at Yumoto; the 2026–27 offer had not been announced |
Do the sums for your own trip. A plain return from Asakusa to Tobu-Nikko is ¥2,800 in fares, and a straight return bus to Yumoto ¥3,900, so ¥6,700 at the least; getting off at Chuzenji on the way, as this plan does, adds to the bus fares. With the ¥3,500 Yumoto bus pass, which lets you get on and off, it is ¥6,300. The ¥8,000 all-area pass comes out ahead mainly if you use more of what it covers within its four days, such as a side trip to Kinugawa or the ski lift ticket (if the ski area is open). Tobu’s NIKKO MaaS smartphone site also sells a digital Oku-Nikko and Yumoto pass, listed at ¥6,000 from Asakusa, but its price varies by season, so check the winter price when you buy.
By car
Tochigi’s rules require chains or another non-slip measure whenever the road is snowy or icy, which in Oku-Nikko is much of the winter, so drive on winter tyres. The Irohazaka climbs about 440 m through its hairpins, normally in about 20 minutes; the pages we checked list no scheduled winter closure for it, but check current road conditions before you go. The road beyond Yumoto over Konsei Pass usually closes from noon on 25 December, so in midwinter you come back the way you went. Read our guide to driving the Irohazaka in winter first.
Day 1: Up the Irohazaka to Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji
| The day at a glance | |
|---|---|
| Morning | Spacia X from Asakusa 7:50, Tobu-Nikko 9:39; bus to Chuzenji Onsen, about 48 minutes |
| Midday | Kegon Falls (elevator ¥600, last entry 16:10 in midwinter); lunch at Chuzenji Onsen |
| Afternoon | The lakeshore, then the bus on to Yumoto Onsen, about 40 minutes more |
| Sleep | Yumoto Onsen |
Save the shrines for tomorrow, when you come back down. Going straight up in the morning gives you the best of the short winter daylight in Oku-Nikko and means you are not racing the 16:10 last entry at the Kegon elevator after a morning of temples.
The Irohazaka
The road up from town is two one-way roads, a down road and an up road, with 48 sharp bends between them; each bend is signed with one of the 48 kana of the old iroha alphabet, which is where the name comes from. From the bus you mostly see snow walls and trees. The famous view of the hairpins is from the Akechidaira ropeway’s upper deck, partway up, and the ropeway is closed: reopening is planned for September 2027 and could slip.

Kegon Falls
Kegon Falls is where Lake Chuzenji spills out over a cliff about 97 m high, and it is a short walk from the Chuzenji Onsen bus stop. In January and February, in a cold enough spell, the thin falls along the rock face, the Juni-taki, can freeze and give the cliff a blue tint of ice, according to the Nikko City tourism site. The main fall keeps running. Take the elevator down through the rock to the lower viewing deck for the noise and spray.


The elevator runs 9:00–16:30 from December to February and 8:00–17:00 from March, with the last entry 20 minutes before closing; it is ¥600 for adults and ¥400 for elementary pupils, return. It can stop without notice in bad weather. More in our Kegon Falls in winter guide.
Lake Chuzenji
Lake Chuzenji formed about 20,000 years ago, when lava from Mt Nantai, the 2,486 m volcano on its north shore, dammed the valley. It sits at 1,269 m, is about 25 km round and 163 m deep, and from the Meiji era into the early Showa years it was a summer retreat for foreign visitors. In winter it is a quieter place, with Mt Nantai standing white over dark water.


Because it is so deep, the lake usually stays open water through winter. A full freeze is rare enough to make the news: the local paper reported the whole lake frozen in February 1984. What you will see in a cold spell is ice on sheltered bays and spray frozen onto rocks and railings along the shore. Do not walk on any ice you find. See our Lake Chuzenji in winter guide.
Other stops on the way to Yumoto
Pick one if you have time; you will not fit them all into a winter afternoon.
Nikko Nature Museum
Next to the Chuzenji Onsen bus stop; renovated in 2023, with big-screen films of Oku-Nikko’s nature. Winter hours 10:00–16:00 from 11 November; closed Mondays (Tuesday if Monday is a holiday) from December to April, and 29 December to 3 January. ¥510.
Ryuzu Falls
A cascade that runs about 210 m down a stair of lava from Mt Nantai. About 65 minutes from Nikko on the Yumoto bus, then a two-minute walk from the Ryuzu-no-taki stop.
Senjogahara
A 400-hectare marsh, once a lake, listed under the Ramsar Convention. The road crosses it; the Sanbonmatsu stop, about 70 minutes from Nikko, has the viewpoint. Part of the walking path is closed until the end of March 2027.
Chuzenji Onsen
The lakeside hot-spring village by the bus terminal. Its water has been piped about 12 km from Yumoto since 1951, so it is the same sulphur spring.
Where to sleep tonight
For the snow and the springs, sleep at Yumoto Onsen at the end of the bus line. Chuzenji Onsen is the alternative if you want to be closer to Kegon Falls and to more buses down in the morning. We stayed at Kamenoi Hotel Oku-Nikko Yumoto, which stands in front of Lake Yunoko; its baths use Yumoto’s sulphur spring, which turns milky white in the air, and dinner was a buffet. The nearest bus stop, the hotel says, is Kohan-mae. Our Kamenoi Hotel review has the full stay.


Staying at Yumoto: check dates and prices for Kamenoi Hotel Oku-Nikko.
Open AgodaStaying at Chuzenji or in town instead: search Nikko on Booking.com, or browse ryokans on Rakuten Travel.
Open Booking.com Open Rakuten TravelDay 2: Yumoto in the snow, then the shrines
| The day at a glance | |
|---|---|
| Early | A short walk through the village to the lakeshore, if conditions allow; a last soak |
| Morning | Bus down to Nikko, about 88 minutes; aim to arrive by late morning |
| Afternoon | Rinnoji first (set ticket sold until 13:30), then Toshogu (last entry 15:30) and Futarasan |
| Evening | Train back to Tokyo |
Yumoto Onsen and Lake Yunoko
Yumoto is a small hot-spring village on the north shore of Lake Yunoko, and its white, sulphurous spring is said to have been found about 1,200 years ago by Shodo Shonin, the monk who founded Nikko’s temples. The smell of sulphur meets you at the bus stop. Lake Yunoko, about 3 km round, was made when an eruption of Mt Mitsudake dammed the river, and unlike Chuzenji it can freeze over. The path around it is closed in winter because it gets icy, and the lake ice is not for walking on. The free footbath in the village, Anyo-no-yu, is closed in winter too.


Snowshoeing from Yumoto
Snowshoeing does not fit into Day 2 alongside the shrines; it needs an extra night at Yumoto, or a Day 2 without the shrines. The Ministry of the Environment’s Yumoto Visitor Center publishes three courses that start in the village: Shakunagedaira (about 3.5 km, 2.5–3 hours), Konsei no Mori (about 3 km, 3 hours) and Kotoge (about 4 km, 4.5–5 hours). In October its route table showed them all closed; check the centre’s website for which courses are open before you set out, and keep to the marked route when they are. The centre opens 9:30–16:00 but is closed on weekdays in December and January and on Wednesdays in February and March, so do not count on asking in person midweek.
Back down to the shrines
Take a morning bus down; it is about 88 minutes from Yumoto to the stations. Go to Rinnoji first, because its set ticket is sold only until 13:30 in winter, then Toshogu, which stops admitting visitors at 15:30. Get off at Nishisando-iriguchi for the shrine area rather than riding to the station.
Nikko Toshogu enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa shogun. Most of what you see was rebuilt by his grandson, the third shogun Iemitsu, in the great reconstruction of 1636: 55 buildings, eight of them National Treasures, lacquered and covered in carving. Snow on the roofs is the picture everyone hopes for, but it is not guaranteed in town. For what to see inside and how long to allow, see our Toshogu guide.
Rinnoji traces itself to Shodo Shonin more than 1,200 years ago. Its Sanbutsudo is the largest wooden building on Nikko’s mountain and holds three great Buddhas for the three sacred mountains. Futarasan Shrine, next door, is the shrine of those mountains, with its inner shrine on the summit of Mt Nantai.
| Site | November to March |
|---|---|
| Nikko Toshogu | 9:00–16:00; ¥1,600 adults, ¥2,400 with the treasure hall |
| Rinnoji | 8:00–16:00; Sanbutsudo ¥400, Taiyuin ¥550, set ticket ¥900 (sold until 13:30 in winter). The Sanbutsudo is closed all day on 3 February and on the morning of 14 December; the treasure hall and Shoyoen garden are closed on 25 November 2026, 27 January and 25 March 2027 |
| Futarasan Shrine, inner garden | 9:00–16:00 (Nikko City tourism site); ¥500 |
Every site stops taking visitors 30 minutes before closing. If you finish early, the stops below are close by; with this plan there is rarely time for both.
Tamozawa Imperial Villa
An imperial villa used from 1899 to 1947, with 106 rooms, about nine minutes by bus from the stations. Winter hours 9:00–16:30, last entry 15:45; closed Tuesdays (with exceptions) and 29 December to 1 January. ¥600.
Wild monkeys
Japanese macaques live wild around Nikko and turn up by the roads and on the Irohazaka. You see them by chance; there is no monkey park. Nikko City’s ordinance bans feeding them in the former Nikko city area; do not feed them anywhere.


Nikko City’s ordinance, which applies in the former Nikko city area, says no one may feed the monkeys, and the city can publish the names of particularly bad offenders. Do not feed wild monkeys anywhere. They are not the hot-spring monkeys of Nagano. More in our guide to wild monkeys in Nikko.
Optional Day 3: which Nikko winter events have 2027 dates?
Dates below are from the Nikko City tourism site on 12 October 2026. Where it says the rest of a programme is last year’s, we give only the confirmed dates.
| Event | Winter 2027 |
|---|---|
| Heike Akari, Yunishigawa Onsen | 8–24 January 2027, Fridays to Sundays, 17:00–21:00, at the Heike no Sato village (¥700 adults); from 29 January it runs alongside the Kamakura Festival |
| Kamakura Festival, Yunishigawa Onsen | 29 January to 28 February 2027. The mini snow huts on the Sawaguchi riverbed are lit on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only, 17:30–21:00 |
| Outdoor Days Nikko, Yumoto | 23–24 January 2027; the 2027 programme had not been announced |
| Yumoto Onsen winter fireworks | 6 February 2027 from 19:30 on the shore of Lake Yunoko; postponed one or two Saturdays in bad weather. On last winter’s timetable the last bus down from Yumoto left at 19:30, so stay the night at Yumoto |
The Kamakura Festival is the one to build a third day around: rows of small candle-lit snow huts along a riverbank in a mountain village. Yunishigawa is not on the Oku-Nikko bus line, so do not go home on Day 2; sleep in Nikko or Kinugawa instead and head there on Day 3. It lies north of Kinugawa: take a train to Yunishigawa-Onsen Station on the Yagan Railway (some Revaty Aizu trains from Asakusa run through), then a Nikko Kotsu bus for about 25 minutes to the village. By car it is about an hour from the Imaichi interchange. The lights come on after dark, so the simplest plan is to stay the night in Yunishigawa; if you want to leave the same evening, check the last bus from Yunishigawa Onsen and the connecting trains first.
How cold is Nikko in winter, and what should you pack?
Colder than Tokyo by a long way. Averages from the Japan Meteorological Agency’s station at Chuzenji (1,292 m) for 1991–2020; Yumoto, higher up, is colder, and town is milder.
| Month | Average high / low; normal deepest snow that month |
|---|---|
| December | 2.8°C / −4.9°C; 15 cm |
| January | −0.3°C / −7.9°C; 31 cm |
| February | 0.6°C / −7.8°C; 30 cm |
| March | 4.2°C / −4.6°C; 30 cm |
Expect temperatures below freezing in Oku-Nikko, especially in the mornings and evenings and higher up at Yumoto. Bring thermal layers, a down jacket, gloves, a hat, and waterproof boots with grip; slip-on crampons help on icy paths. Phone batteries drain fast in the cold, so keep yours in an inside pocket.
What does a winter weekend in Nikko cost?
Per adult, transport and admissions only, at normal-season train prices and assuming you buy the Rinnoji set ticket by 13:30. On busy days the limited-express charge is ¥200 more each way, about ¥14,200 in all. Hotels vary too much by date to quote; check them for your own dates.
| Item | Yen |
|---|---|
| Asakusa ↔ Tobu-Nikko, Spacia X standard seat, normal season | ¥6,680 return (¥1,400 fare plus ¥1,940 limited-express charge, each way) |
| Bus to Yumoto and back | ¥3,500 with the 2-day Yumoto bus pass |
| Kegon Falls elevator | ¥600 |
| Toshogu, Rinnoji set ticket, Futarasan inner garden | ¥3,000 |
| Total before hotel and food | About ¥13,800 |
Questions travellers ask
Is Nikko worth visiting in winter?
Yes, if you go up to Oku-Nikko and stay a night. The town is quiet and the shrines are open, but the snow, the ice on Kegon’s cliff in a cold spell and the hot springs are up the valley. Expect fewer buses and a few closures.
Is Nikko open in winter?
Yes. The shrines and temple in town stay open through the winter on shorter hours (Toshogu 9:00–16:00 from November to March), with a few closure days at Rinnoji, and Tobu buses run up to Chuzenji and Yumoto Onsen all winter. The Akechidaira Ropeway is closed for renovation, with reopening planned for September 2027, and the Konsei Pass road closes for the winter.
Does Lake Chuzenji freeze?
Rarely. It is 163 m deep and usually stays open water; the local paper reported a complete freeze in February 1984. Lake Yunoko, higher up at Yumoto, can freeze over, but do not walk on the ice of either lake.
Can I do Nikko in winter as a day trip from Tokyo?
For the shrines, yes. For Kegon Falls as well, leave Asakusa early and allow about an hour each way on the bus from town. Yumoto Onsen and the evening events at Yunishigawa are better with a night there.
Is the NIKKO PASS worth it in winter?
Not always. A plain return from Asakusa plus a straight return bus to Yumoto comes to at least ¥6,700 in fares (more if you stop off at Chuzenji on the way), or ¥6,300 with Tobu Bus’s ¥3,500 Yumoto pass, against ¥8,000 for the all-area pass. Tobu’s digital Oku-Nikko pass is another option; check its winter price when you buy. The pass pays off if you also use its other trains and buses or the winter ski-lift ticket within its four days. Limited-express charges are extra either way. The ¥3,000 world-heritage pass does not reach Chuzenji or Yumoto.
Can I see snow monkeys in Nikko?
Wild Japanese macaques live around Nikko and are often seen by the roads, but there is no monkey park and no guarantee. For monkeys bathing in hot springs you need Jigokudani in Nagano. Do not feed them; a city ordinance bans it in the former Nikko city area.
Is it safe to drive to Oku-Nikko in winter?
It depends on the day’s weather, road surface and any restrictions. Chains or another non-slip measure are required on snowy or icy roads in Tochigi, so drive on winter tyres and check road information just before you set off. The road beyond Yumoto over Konsei Pass usually closes from late December. If you have not driven on snow, take the bus.
Kegon Falls in Winter
The viewing decks, the elevator and the frozen Juni-taki in detail.
Lake Chuzenji in Winter
A walk along the lakeshore and what is open around it.
Irohazaka Winter Drive
Driving the 48 hairpins on snow, and where to stop.
Kamenoi Hotel Oku-Nikko Review
Our night at Yumoto: the rooms, the sulphur baths, the buffet.
Nikko Toshogu: What to Know
The carvings, the route through the shrine and how long to allow.
Tochigi Waterfall Guide
Ten falls around Nikko, Shiobara and Nasu.
Sources
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Tobu Bus: Nikko area timetables and fares (summer timetable to 30 November 2026; winter timetable 1 December 2025 – 31 March 2026); Chuzenji Onsen stops moved from 24 September 2026; free passes; last winter’s half-price pass: Kamenoi Hotel notice, 1 January 2026
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Tobu Railway: NIKKO PASS all area; NIKKO PASS world heritage area; access; Spacia X timetable and fares; busy and quiet days
- Checked 12 October 2026 — JR East Nikko Line timetable (October 2026); Japan Rail Pass scope
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Nikko Toshogu hours and fees; Rinnoji; Nikko City tourism site: Toshogu, Rinnoji, Futarasan Shrine, Tamozawa Imperial Villa
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Kegon Falls elevator; Nikko City tourism site: Kegon Falls, Irohazaka, Lake Chuzenji, Mt Nantai, Ryuzu Falls, Senjogahara, Nikko Nature Museum, Chuzenji Onsen, Yumoto Onsen, Lake Yunoko
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Akechidaira Ropeway; Tochigi winter road closures (2025–26 notice); Tochigi road traffic rules, article 13
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Ministry of the Environment Nikko Yumoto Visitor Center: notices, snowshoe courses, roads and trails, opening hours; Nikko Yumoto ski area
- Checked 12 October 2026 — 1984 freeze: Shimotsuke Shimbun, 15 February 1984, via the Collaborative Reference Database; JMA normals, Oku-Nikko
- Checked 12 October 2026 — Nikko City tourism site: Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival 2027, Heike Akari 2027, Outdoor Days Nikko 2027 and Yumoto winter fireworks; Nikko City ordinance banning feeding of monkeys; Kamenoi Hotel Oku-Nikko
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