Every March, the historic Jindaiji Temple in Chofu, Tokyo, fills with red-and-white daruma dolls for the Jindaiji Daruma Ichi. It’s one of Japan’s three biggest daruma markets, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors over two days. The temple town is just as known for its soba — including the hand-cut, 100%% buckwheat kamo seiro at Tamanoya.
Here’s what to expect — the me-ire eye-opening ceremony, the rows of stalls, and how to get there.
Table of Contents
Quick Facts
| Feature | Details |
| Event Dates | Annually on March 3rd and 4th |
| Location | Jindaiji Temple, 5-15-1 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo |
| Hours | Approx. 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM |
| Admission | Free (Donations and purchases are separate) |
| Highlights | Daruma market, me-ire eye-opening ceremony, food stalls |
What is the Jindaiji Daruma Ichi?
The Jindaiji Daruma Ichi, officially known as the Yakuyoke Ganzan Daishi Taisai (Grand Festival of the Amuletic Master Ganzan), is a tradition dating back to the Edo Period (1603-1867). It’s one of the three largest and most famous daruma markets in Japan, held annually at Jindaiji Temple, one of Tokyo’s oldest temples. For two days the temple grounds are lined with over 300 stalls selling daruma dolls of every size, plus rows of food vendors.
The Daruma Doll: A Symbol of Good Fortune
Daruma dolls are traditional Japanese wishing dolls modeled after Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen Buddhism. They are typically red, hollow, and round, designed to always return to an upright position when tipped over, symbolizing perseverance and resilience.
When you buy a daruma, both of its eyes are blank. The custom is to make a wish or set a goal and paint in the daruma’s left eye. You then place the doll somewhere visible to remind you of your goal. Once your wish is granted or your goal is achieved, you paint in the right eye to express gratitude. Outside festival season, shops like BEAMS Japan in Shinjuku sell daruma year-round.
The “Me-ire” Eye-Opening Ceremony: A Unique Jindaiji Tradition
The highlight of the Jindaiji Daruma Ichi is the unique me-ire (eye-opening) ceremony. After purchasing a daruma doll from a stall, you can take it to a special booth set up in front of the Ganzan Daishi Hall. Here, a temple monk will paint the doll’s left eye for you.
What makes the Jindaiji ceremony special is the character they write. The monk will inscribe the Sanskrit character “A” (阿), representing the beginning of all things in Buddhist cosmology. This is a practice unique to Jindaiji Temple. When your wish is fulfilled and you return the doll to the temple, a monk will write the character “Un” (吽) in the right eye, symbolizing the end or fulfillment of all things.
What to Do at the Market
Beyond the ceremony, the stalls are worth a slow wander — daruma of every shape and colour, and festival food like mitarashi dango (sweet soy-glazed rice dumplings) and yakisoba.
At 2:00 PM, you can also witness the Oneri Gyoretsu, a solemn parade of high-ranking monks in ornate robes walking through the temple grounds.
How to Get to the Jindaiji Daruma Ichi
Jindaiji Temple is not located directly next to a train station, so a short bus ride is required.
By Public Transport (Recommended):
1.Take a train to one of the nearest major stations: Chofu or Tsutsujigaoka on the Keio Line, or Kichijoji or Mitaka on the JR Chuo Line.
2.From the station, take a bus bound for “Jindaiji”. The ride takes approximately 10-15 minutes.
3.Get off at the “Jindaiji” bus stop, which is a 1-minute walk from the temple.
By Car:
Driving is not recommended due to heavy traffic and very limited parking. The temple’s official parking is reserved for specific visitors, and nearby paid parking lots fill up extremely quickly. Traffic restrictions are also common during the festival period.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
•Go on a weekday if possible:
The festival is extremely crowded, especially on the weekend if the dates fall on one.
•Bring cash:
While some vendors may accept electronic payments, cash is king at festivals.
•Wear comfortable shoes:
You will be doing a lot of walking and standing.
•Be patient:
Expect long queues, especially for the me-ire ceremony.
FAQs
What time is the festival?
The stalls are generally open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM on March 3rd and 4th.
Can I buy a daruma doll and not have its eye painted?
Yes, you can take the doll home and paint the eye yourself when you set your goal.
What do I do with my old daruma doll?
It is customary to return old daruma dolls to the temple where they were purchased. Jindaiji has a designated spot for collecting old dolls, which are later burned in a ceremonial fire.
Ume-no-Yu (Chōfu)
Warm up after the daruma market at nearby Ume-no-Yu.
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